My wife Sandra and I have just returned from a week long holiday to the island of Lesvos and although it was not a birding holiday I managed to get quite a bit in. On this, our second visit, we were joined by my brother David and also by his old school buddy John Barn and John's wife Carol. Unlike on my last holiday here I did get an occasional trip in a car and as a result saw more of the island's specialities. We stayed at the Pela Hotel in Skala Kalloni which is presided over by consummate and warm host Thekla who also doubles as the island's Mother Theresa caring for a mixed flock of cats and other animals. Weatherwise it was warm and sunny for the first five days, rainy and grey for the next and very windy on the last full day.
 |
| Skala selection. |
Skala Kalloni is an excellent place to stay and serves as a hub for a horde of visiting birders from an array of different countries. Just two minutes away from our hotel the Kalloni Wetland turned out to be quite a productive spot, the species which drew the most admirers was a Savi's Warbler but other highlights included Little Crake, Purple Heron and a pair of Garganey. In the sea just off shore from the wetland I saw what was probably the rarest species of the trip - a Mediterranean Monk Seal, there are fewer than 200 left in the Aegean Sea and it drew a large crowd of birders. A little further away the west river was also pretty good often playing host to a variety of terns and waders including Stone Curlew. Ruddy Shelducks which were seen quite widely were usually present and we also saw a Long-legged Buzzard. On the other side of the village at the east river we saw Spur-winged Plovers and Black Storks while in the wider general area both Long-eared and Scop's Owls were noted. Another species that will linger in the memory was a male Collared Flycatcher which showed well near the village centre.
 |
| Long-eared and Scops Owl, Black-headed Wagtail and Spanish Sparrow |
I only made one trip to the Kalloni salt pans this year and that was to twitch a Lesser Flamingo which was Greece's fourth. Earlier we had travelled further afield in an attempt to find this species at another set of salt pans only to learn that the bird had been flushed by workers so it was good to put this dip to bed a little later in the day. On the way to the pans we stopped at a known Kruper's Nuthatch site and were lucky enough to see two which were my first, a Masked Shrike provided some quality back up. Another road trip towards Makara produced sightings of Rock Nuthatches, Black-eared Wheatears and Raven, the nuthatches were my first in Europe having previously seen them in Turkey.
 |
| Lesser Flamingo, Little Bittern, Red-backed Shrike and Spur-winged Plover |
Our last full day involved spending a morning at the Petrified Forest and also at Ipsilou Monastery where despite the gale force winds we had a very good session. Just as we arrived at the forest a short stop produced excellent views of my first Cretzschmar's Bunting, we saw several more a little later on. In the forest itself John found a Chukar which was yet another new species and we heard an Orphean Warbler. Several brief views of Golden Oriole were as welcome as always and there were quite a few stunning looking Black-eared Wheatears around. Top target at the monastery was Cinereous Bunting and John found two taking my bird lifers up to five. Other species around the site included Blue Rock Thrush, Cirl Bunting, Woodlark and a flock of at least seven Golden Orioles.
 |
| Collared Flycatcher, Black-eared Wheatear, Cretzschmar's and Cinereous Buntings |
I don't know how many species I saw during my week but I can say that it was an enjoyable experience with good birds, good company, good food and copious quantities of drink. If you fancy a version of the Scillies transposed to the Med then I can heartily recommend it, you'll certainly meet plenty of other birders and there's no shortage of information available. If you don't hate cats I'd stay at the Pela if you can though there are plenty of other choices around. It's unlikely that I'm going to return but I thoroughly enjoyed both of my visits and the opportunities they provided to see some great wildlife.
 |
| Ruddy Shelduck and Monk Seal |
